How to Spot a Fake Leica TL;DR Version

For the past couple of months I’ve been working on a new and comprehensive guide that shows how to differentiate between fake and genuine screw mount Leicas. As I was finished up that article, I noticed it had grown to over 4500 words and the words of Stephen Dowling rang in my head about people not reading long articles, so I thought perhaps I could have the best of both worlds and publish that super long “Mike Eckman approved” version, but then make a second TL;DR version which skimps everything down to only just what you need to know.

Only one of these cameras is a real Leica.

If you’re here and want to read that post, here is a link to the full version. I highly recommend reading the full version at least once, but if you just want the simplest possible explanation for how you can spot a fake screw mount Leica, here you go.

Super Short Intro

Screw mount Leicas were very popular in the mid 20th century and several companies made their own copies of the same basic design. Some were nearly identical to the original, others strayed from the original formula, adding new features.

Of all the copies that were made, Soviet FED and Zorkis are most commonly modified by counterfeiters to make fake Leicas. These cameras are easy to find on eBay today and often show up for sale, usually stating that they are in fact a copy, but sometimes you see some that are sold as the real thing, and people often want to know how to tell the difference.

Since over 99% of counterfeit Leicas started out as a Soviet FED or Zorki, this article covers the Soviet versions. There are probably a very small number of Japanese cameras turned into counterfeit Leicas, but they are not common, so it’s unlikely you’ll ever come across one.

Fake Leicas

The following are characteristics of Soviet FED and Zorki cameras that are still visible after being converted into a Leica. If you see a camera with one, or multiples of these characteristics, it is almost certainly fake.

Rectangular window with a frame that goes all the way to the top of the camera.

Shutter release with internal cable release threads and non removable collar.

No stitches on edges of cloth shutter curtains.

At infinity, lens focusing tab is at 9 o’clock, and a black painted border between the body covering and top and bottom plates.

These two Soviet cameras show two different kinds of sold metal arms that are used to couple the lens to the rangefinder. If there is no wheel, it’s not a Leica.

Crudely, imprecise, and non paint filled numbers on exposure counter.

Crudely, imprecise, and non paint filled numbers on shutter speed dial.

Wide gap to the left of accessory shoe and soft, vaguely defined edges to the top plate.

Real Leicas

If you have the real thing, you should see all of the following characteristics:

Rectangular window does not go all the way to the top plate.

Smooth top to the shutter release with removable externally threaded collar.

Stitching near the edges of the cloth shutter curtains.

Lens focuses to infinity near the 7 o’clock position, and also the body covering goes right up to the top and bottom plates with no black trim.

Sharp and precise paint filled engravings on the exposure counter.

Sharp and precise paint filled engravings on the shutter speed dial.

Sharp, clearly defined edges to accessory shoe and top plate.

There. I did it. Spotting fake Leicas in less than 600 words.

2 Comments

Andrew Piper

December 10, 2020 at 9:29 am 4 years ago


Thank you. An excellent article.
Roger B.

December 10, 2020 at 6:28 pm 4 years ago


Good info here, Mike. Wish you could post it in eBay’s “vintage rangefinder” listing section. To your summary of fakes to beware of, I’d add any camera that says Luftwaffen Eigentum or has the eagle logo of the German WW2 military on the top plate – that is listed for less than $1,000.